Azulejos: The Art of Tiles in Porto’s Architecture

If you’ve wandered around Porto, you’ll have noticed something immediately striking. It’s not just the famous port wine, or even the stunning view of the Douro River from the Luis I Bridge. No, it’s the azulejos – those stunning, intricate tiles that seem to cover everything from churches and train stations to ordinary houses. These tiles aren’t just decoration; they’re storytelling, culture and history, all wrapped up in bright blues, yellows and whites. There’s something almost magical about them, like Porto's walls are alive with tales of its past.

In Porto, it's not just the port wine or Douro River views that captivate, but the magical azulejos—vivid tiles adorning buildings, telling stories of the city's rich culture and history

So, what are azulejos? Where did they come from, and why are they so central to Porto’s identity? Let's delve into the world of these iconic tiles – the artistic heartbeat of Porto's architecture.

A Brief History of Azulejos

The history of azulejos (pronounced “a-zoo-leh-zhoosh”) in Portugal is long, dating back to the 13th century. Interestingly, the word “azulejo” comes from the Arabic word “al-zellige,” meaning “polished stone.” This makes sense considering the Moors brought the concept of tilework to the Iberian Peninsula when they occupied parts of it. However, the tiles we see today aren’t just a continuation of Moorish influence. They’ve evolved into something uniquely Portuguese.

Azulejos, originating from the Arabic "al-zellige" and introduced by the Moors in the 13th century, have since evolved into a distinctly Portuguese art form

It wasn't until the 16th century that azulejos began to resemble the tiles we see today. When King Manuel I visited Seville in Spain, he was captivated by the vibrant, geometric tiles that covered the city’s buildings. Inspired, he brought the idea back to Portugal, where the art form was adapted, embraced and expanded. What began as intricate geometric designs evolved into large panels depicting religious scenes, historical events or everyday life.

Porto, being one of the oldest cities in Portugal, quickly adopted this art form. The city’s architecture became a canvas for azulejos, with entire walls being covered in sprawling, detailed panels. By the 18th century, azulejos in Porto reached their golden age, with the vibrant blue and white tiles that we most associate with the city today becoming the norm.

The Blue and White Revolution

If you’ve ever stood in front of São Bento Station or walked past the Capela das Almas in Porto, you’ve likely been mesmerised by the sheer scale and detail of the blue and white azulejos. But why blue and white?

The answer lies in a combination of aesthetics and economics. Blue dye, made from cobalt oxide, was easier to produce and more durable than other colours. It also gave the tiles a striking contrast against the bright Portuguese sunlight, making the scenes pop. The colour choice was also influenced by the Ming Dynasty porcelain from China, which was highly fashionable in Europe during the 17th and 18th centuries. The white background allowed the blue designs to stand out in a way that other colours simply didn’t.

The scenes depicted on these tiles were also significant. Churches like the Igreja do Carmo or the Igreja de Santo Ildefonso are covered in azulejos depicting scenes from the Bible, the lives of saints or important moments in Christian history. Meanwhile, secular buildings or private homes might feature more whimsical designs – floral patterns, hunting scenes or even the day-to-day life of 18th-century Porto.

The blue and white azulejos, inspired by Ming Dynasty porcelain, use durable cobalt blue for a striking contrast in sunlight, with churches like Igreja de Santo Ildefonso often depicting biblical scenes

São Bento Station: A Masterpiece in Tile

No conversation about azulejos in Porto would be complete without mentioning São Bento Station. Walk into this iconic railway station and you’re immediately transported into a world of blue and white tiles telling the story of Portugal's history.

The station, completed in 1916, boasts over 20,000 azulejos designed by Jorge Colaço, one of the most prominent azulejo artists of the early 20th century. The tiles depict everything from key moments in Portugal’s history, such as the Battle of Valdevez, to more local scenes like the city’s traditional methods of wine production and rural life in the Douro Valley.

No discussion of Porto’s azulejos is complete without São Bento Station, where over 20,000 tiles by Jorge Colaço showcase key moments in Portugal’s history and local life, including the Battle of Valdevez and traditional wine production

What makes São Bento truly special is how it manages to merge art with functionality. It’s not just a station, it’s an art gallery where people rush past history every day, often without realising it. It’s easy to miss the level of detail on the tiles when you’re rushing to catch a train, but take a moment to stop and appreciate them. You’ll see that each panel is a snapshot of a different era of Portuguese life.

Igreja de Santo Ildefonso and Capela das Almas

Two other key sites for azulejo lovers in Porto are the Igreja de Santo Ildefonso and the Capela das Almas. The former is located near Batalha Square and is a brilliant example of 18th-century tilework. Its façade is covered in azulejos that depict religious scenes in vibrant shades of blue and white, giving the building an almost ethereal glow under the Portuguese sun.

The Capela das Almas, on the other hand, is a more recent construction (by Portuguese standards), with its azulejos added in the early 20th century. This chapel’s tiles tell the story of the lives of saints such as St. Francis of Assisi and St. Catherine, but what really makes it stand out is its location. Right in the middle of the city’s bustling Rua de Santa Catarina, it’s a stunning example of how azulejos aren't just reserved for grand buildings or secluded churches – they’re part of the everyday fabric of life in Porto.

The early 20th-century azulejos of Capela das Almas depict the lives of saints like St. Francis and St. Catherine, standing out in the busy Rua de Santa Catarina as a reminder that azulejos are woven into Porto’s everyday life, not just its grand buildings

Azulejos in Ordinary Buildings

Though the grand churches and stations of Porto get the most attention, what’s even more striking is how widespread azulejos are. Wander through the narrow streets of the Ribeira district and you’ll find countless houses covered in tiles. Some of these buildings are centuries old; others are much more modern, but they all share a common characteristic: the colourful tiles that decorate their facades.

In Porto, azulejos aren't just for decoration; they serve a practical purpose too. The tiles help protect buildings from the humid coastal climate, preserving the walls underneath from damp and mould. And because they’re so durable, they’ve withstood the test of time in a way that painted facades might not have.

What’s lovely about these more modest azulejos is how personal they feel. You might see a simple floral design on one house, while the next door over features an elaborate geometric pattern. Some homes opt for traditional blue and white, while others explode with vibrant greens, yellows and even reds. Every house seems to tell its own story, and as you walk through the streets, you get a sense of the personalities of the people who lived (or still live) there.

The Modern Revival

You might think that azulejos are a relic of the past – something from the golden age of Portuguese art and architecture. But in Porto, they’re as relevant as ever. Over the last few decades, there’s been a revival of interest in azulejos, with artists and designers using the traditional techniques to create modern works.

Take, for instance, the stunning contemporary tilework that you’ll find in the Casa da Música, a modernist concert hall that has become an icon of the city. The building's sleek, angular design contrasts beautifully with the traditional azulejos that cover parts of its interior, showing how this centuries-old art form can still be fresh and innovative.

Casa da Música, a modernist icon in Porto, features sleek design paired with contemporary azulejos inside, showcasing how this traditional art form remains fresh and innovative

There are also newer public art projects that use azulejos in strikingly modern ways. Walking through the city, you might stumble upon a mural or an installation that uses the traditional tiles but in a completely new context – perhaps as part of a larger mosaic or in combination with other materials.

It’s a testament to the versatility of azulejos that they can feel at home on both a 19th-century church and a 21st-century concert hall.

Bringing Azulejos Home

As a visitor, it’s hard not to fall in love with Porto’s azulejos. And the good news is, you can take a piece of this art form home with you. Throughout the city, you’ll find shops selling traditional azulejos – from antique tiles that have been salvaged from old buildings to newly made ones by local artisans.

If you’re lucky, you might even stumble upon a tile painting workshop where you can create your own azulejo. It’s a unique way to connect with the city’s heritage and walk away with a one-of-a-kind souvenir.

Final Thoughts

In Porto, azulejos are more than just tiles. They’re history, art and identity. Whether you’re standing in awe at the massive murals in São Bento Station or admiring the more humble designs on a quiet side street, you can’t help but feel like the city is telling you a story through these beautiful, intricate works of art.

So, next time you’re in Porto, slow down a little. Look up at the buildings around you. You might be surprised at just how much history, beauty and craftsmanship is hidden in plain sight, right there on the city’s walls.